The picture doesn’t lie. We waked up to a cold, rainy Friday morning. We put on us several layers. The church bells rang to signal that it’s nine o’clock and we should move on. One kilometer uphill, not too difficult but still an effort (Doron went fast as if to finish it as soon as possible and I walked slowly), took us out of the valley. half an hour later, at the top -again an amazing view of the valley and the surrounding cliffs. The path became slippery under the rain and our full attention was required in order not to stumble on the stones. We passed between stone fences, and it looked as if the ancient farmers, those who had been laboriously clearing the fields and removing masses of stones, built fences and left the rest on the pass.
Yellow lemon-colored snails decorated the path. We walked carefully between them so as not to squash and kill and the effort led us to an existential conversation. Considering that we are some kind of supreme force for the snails, does it similar to the ‘force majeure’ that might or might not exists above us- sometimes caring and seeing, sometimes indifferent or cruel? Our views were very different and after awhile we dropped the subject. Either way, the next day we have not seen the snails, they disappeared. Maybe it had to do with the weather and the particular vegetation around us. The trail led us into the woods- Green moss covered the fences and trees and created a magical world of quite. The path led us up and down and finally met the road. At the junction there were a number of agricultural buildings and, alongside the road, an old remnant, a stand that farriers used for shoeing . And again, another mountain to climb. By 11 o’clock we arrived to the summit. Facing the view was an old farmhouse and a mare with a foal trying to learn how to stand.
Not far from Sauliac, at Cuzals, we passed near the Open Air Museum of Quercy. It is dedicated to explaining rural life and traditions of the area. We didn’t stop but kept going down the road. Just above Sauliac, for the first time after many kilometers, a bench ! Place to sit and relax and enjoy the view. It was a nice rest and opportunity to put some Arnica on the painful muscles. At 12:00 we arrived to the old part of Sauliac-sur-cele. Above the road stands Chateau des Anglais – one of the fortifications , date from the eleventh or twelfth century- that are embedded into the limestone cliffs all along the Lot valley. Pictures and maps on the rock illustrated how the place looked like in 1880 before the village changed location and moved near to the river. From Sauliac the GR651 went up and down, winding between golden fields, passing through wide areas with oak trees. Doron, a true gentleman, insisted on carrying most of the day and especially during the climbing (and the days after) the backpack for both of us and allowed my painful back a rest.
Around 15:30 we saw the Cele river and Cabrerets from above. For a few long minutes we stood and appreciated the beauty and the quiet. Then we started the descent. We were happy to discover that our B&B , Un Jardin dans la Falaise, is just in the entrance to the village. Cathy welcomed us and took us to our beautiful and spacious room with view to the castle and river. We sat on the porch and enjoyed a coffee and a look at the view. In the evening we went down to the center of the village to eat dinner. Cabrerets is picturesque and quiet, like many other villages we saw on the Camino this one also seems to be semi deserted and it’s a pity. On our way attracted our attention chateau des Gontaut Biron (date 14c-15c)It is open now to the public but we decided to skip .We have dined by the river in a small hotel. Although the meal was disappointing, the atmosphere was nice . By the time we returned to the room it started raining again. We hiked 21 kilometers today (including the walk to the village and back) and we were happy to go to sleep.